Make your Own DIY Wood Drying Kiln (Updated for 2026)
Updated: Oct 30
So you’ve started this obsession known as woodturning, bought a lathe and some hand tools, and now you’re chomping at the bit to get turning.
The problem is that you have very little wood to work with, and what you can get is often expensive, limited or hard to source.
Then you read an article or watch a video where someone says you can cut and dry your own wood for less money and in less time. Easy and no fuss.
Well, not exactly.
Drying your own hardwood can be useful, but it is only one part of a much bigger process. Before wood ever goes near a drying kiln, it still has to be found, cut, sealed, checked, stored and judged properly.
If you are new to that whole process, start with my wider guide: Wood for Woodturning: A Beginner’s Guide to Finding, Processing and Drying Hardwood Blanks.
That guide covers the bigger picture of sourcing and preparing wood for the lathe. This post focuses on one specific part of that process: making a simple DIY drying kiln for woodturning blanks.
Make your Own DIY Wood Drying Kiln
In this Post I will describe how I built and used my own DIY Kilns using retail glass front shop fridges. Any unit that is mostly insulated like Fridges, Dishwashers etc. will do but the bigger they are, the more wood you can dry at any one time.
With my experience insights you may be able to set up your own system and dry wood for Woodturning faster and hopefully cheaper than buying off the shelves.
The image above was my first crude attempt getting a kiln off the ground. You can see different sizes of wood and species from hardwood to softwoods inside, I didn't know any better to be honest and I was rushing to dry wood.
Disclaimer; You need to get expert advice on Electrics and Fire Safety!
Before getting into the practical details below, it’s important to be clear about safety and responsibility.
This post is not a definitive instructional manual. It’s a practical guide showing how I built and used my own kiln, based on real workshop experience. I’ll refer to safe practices throughout because working with a wood-drying kiln involves electricity, heat, and moisture, all of which can be dangerous if handled incorrectly.
Any electrical work should be carried out or checked by a qualified electrician. Make sure the unit is properly earthed using suitable earth wiring and an earth spike where required. Electricity and water are a dangerous combination, so professional advice is essential before you go any further.
Fire safety is equally important. Appropriate precautions should be in place near the kiln at all times, such as a fire extinguisher and fire blanket, to protect both the workspace and your home. Ultimately, you are fully responsible for your own setup and its operation. Saving a few euros on timber is never worth risking serious damage or costly repairs.
With that in mind, the sections below outline the practical considerations around housing, layout, and setup, based on what has worked for me.
Where Can You Find a Suitable Fridge for a DIY Wood Drying Kiln?
The glass-fronted fridges I used were originally commercial display refrigerators, the type you might see in a convenience shop, café, pub or restaurant. They make excellent starting points because they are already insulated, have shelves, and generally offer plenty of room for stacking wood.
You don't necessarily need a working fridge either. In fact, a broken or unwanted commercial fridge may be a much cheaper option, provided the cabinet itself is structurally sound and suitable for conversion.
Some places worth looking include:
Adverts.ie and DoneDeal: Search for commercial display fridges, drinks fridges, shop refrigerators or broken fridges. You may find businesses selling older equipment quite cheaply.
Pubs, cafés and restaurants: Businesses occasionally replace their refrigeration equipment during renovations or closures. It's worth asking locally if they have an unwanted unit.
Commercial refrigeration companies: Some companies remove and replace older units for customers and may have cabinets awaiting disposal.
Shop clearance and catering equipment auctions: Closing businesses sometimes sell equipment at relatively low prices.
Local recycling and appliance businesses: Some may have suitable units, although you should always ask permission and check whether they can legally release them for reuse.
What should you look for?
Ideally, you want a reasonably large, well-insulated cabinet with a door that closes properly. Check the condition of the shelves, interior walls, door seals and floor. Remember that the cabinet will eventually be holding a considerable weight of timber.
A glass door is useful because you can see what's happening inside, particularly during the early stages when condensation is building up. However, glass also loses heat, which is why I eventually made an insulated plywood cover for mine.
You should also consider how you will get the fridge home. Commercial display fridges can be surprisingly heavy and awkward to transport.
One important point: A discarded fridge is still a refrigeration appliance. Refrigerant gases, compressors and electrical components must be handled by appropriately qualified people. Don't attempt to cut into or remove refrigeration components yourself.
You don't need an expensive or attractive cabinet for this project. A scruffy old shop fridge with good insulation and a sound structure could be perfectly suitable once it has been professionally assessed for safe conversion.
Housing Requirements and Set Up
You’ll need a sheltered location to house the kiln, ideally an outdoor shed or lean-to that is weatherproof and well protected. Rain should not be able to reach the unit, and it’s worth remembering that rain doesn’t always fall straight down, wind can drive it sideways.
I initially housed my kiln under a lean-to roof outside my workshop. It worked well for a time, but as the workshop layout evolved and other equipment came in, I eventually relocated the kiln to different areas better suited to long-term use.
If possible, locate them away from your house or valuable property is advisable too. An available power socket, preferably waterproof is also necessary, I don't recommend stringing extension leads together to reach the kiln as this is not safe practice.
Have a Smoke Alarm, Fire Extinguisher and Fire Blanket in close proximity to the kiln at all times to be prepared for any eventuality no matter how remote you think the possibility is.
Air Holes
I started by drilling 4 x 1'' holes in the floor and 4 x 50mm holes on the left and right up near the inside top of the kiln. I could have limited this to 1 x 50mm or 2 inch hole each side as 4 was total overkill. Most of the time the holes should be almost completely covered so that the warm air doesn't escape too quickly and a little drip of water should be visible there at all times during the first few weeks. A small hole each side would probably have been sufficient too and a control door much simpler to make. Too many holes
and you might case harden the wood.
In the early weeks of use, the kiln should always look wet with droplets all over the glass and walls of the kiln.
I also drilled holes in the floor so the warm air rising would pull in new fresh air which would in turn be warmed and circulated. There are many articles online that suggest drilling multiple large holes but I found that a few small ones do the job. You can always cover these holes if you find there is too much fresh air going in to the kiln. You can start off drilling one hole in the bottom and one each side and then experiment with each new load of wood. Drill more as required.
Metal Platform for trapping heat
This made sense to me after my first operation. I had Beech Bowls and some cracked on the lowest shelf because the heat from the bulb was too direct and severe. I got stainless steel platform trays made up with a downward lip on all 4 sides, in effect making an upside down receptacle.
My thinking at the time, was that the tray would stop direct light from the bulb from reaching the wood and also allow heat to build up underneath the tray and dissipate more slowly. I think it worked like I planned. You can see the pan in the image above.
PC Fan
At the time I was experimenting with wind and solar power and I had a couple of deep cycle marine batteries set up. A buddy of mine gave me 2 large PC fans which worked a treat using the batteries. The PC fan had a low CFM rate and gently pushed the air from below. Too fast and too direct air current can cause micro cracks, especially in bowls.
Important; Bowls and blanks should have their endgrain sealed with glue before going into the kiln to slow down moisture loss. Always use stickers to keep an air gap around the wood at all times.
Light for Heat
I rigged up a standard light pendant at the rear of the kiln about 6 inches above the floor. I chose this height so as not to melt the floor of the unit. The floor is light metal sheeting with plastic and insulation underneath. See image above.
I found so many articles about DIY kilns that say start a greenwood load with a 40 watt bulb and increase to 60 watt after a week, eventually getting up to 100 watts. I saw no need to change the bulb at all and the kiln reached temperatures of 20 degrees Celsius and above quite easily. If you want it to get hotter, close the air vents even further.
You could add a 60 watt bulb to begin with but that may get too hot and will cost more to run. Using a 40 watt bulb and allowing extra drying time would be far better for the wood you are drying. Slower is nearly always better when it comes to drying wood!
Glass Front Cover
I realized during early testing that the Glass Front was losing heat so I rigged up a cover of Marine Plywood with reflective insulating foil on the inside and a handle for easy removal. I also painted the lower end of the glass door to stop light reflecting back into the wood. This was a very effective and cheap solution.
Relative Humidity Monitor
You can buy battery RH devices and temperature monitors quite cheaply on eBay and though not 100% accurate should give you an indication of progress. During the first 2 weeks of operation there should be 100% Relative Humidity in the kiln and it should drop slowly after that.
Don't try and rush this by opening the vents. 1mm of air gap is probably more than enough on each side of the kiln. If the surface moisture on the fridge door starts to disappear too quickly you need to close the top air vents further or completely until the moisture returns.
Sometimes the moisture will escape through the closed vent hole without any need to open the vents, it depends on the material you use for the door. You will have to experiment yourself to find the best way. I used 3mm or 1/8 inch plywood and it seemed to work fine.
Before Operating the Kiln
Before switching on for the first time I attached and Earth Cable to the metal frame close to the pendant and connected it to an Earth Spike driven into the ground close by. I asked an Electrician friend to double check everything was safe too. I didn't want to risk burning my workshop down so better to be safe than sorry. I have done plenty of wiring in my life but I always defer to a professional when there is any possible risk to life and property.
Operating the Kiln
When filling the kiln with wood, it is important to load the kiln with similar species and similar thicknesses. Don't put a 4 inch blank with a 2 inch blanks and expect them to dry over the same timeframe.
Always use stickers to separate the wood and leave gaps all around for the air to circulate. Avoid overloading if you think it is interfering with airflow or gaps between wood.
Container of water
Greenwood needs moisture in order to start drying so it's important to add a container of water so the heat can raise the humidity to 100% for at least the first week or two. In my case, I filled a Chinese takeaway container and left it dead centre in the bottom of the kiln. The greenwood will release moisture too so it shouldn't run out too quickly.
You can add a bigger container if you wish. The heat from the bulb and the air movement from the fan will evaporate the container after the first week or so and the kiln walls and floor should be saturated at this point. As long as you don't open the vents too much during the initial stages the wood should dry correctly from the inside out.
As Simple as that but not really. In the first few pictures you will see a mix of Leland Cypress, Ash and Yew. This was back when I didn't know what I was doing and having just built the units I was itching to try them out.
Experience has taught me that you can't dry hardwoods and softwoods together and you shouldn't dry different thicknesses together either. Keep 2 inch stock with 2 inch stock and dry 4 inch stock with 4 inch stock. 4 inch planks would be better off being air dried for a year or two before using a kiln. If you intend 4 inch material for bowls then it would be better to rough Turn and seal them prior to using a kiln.
Experimentation in the early stages of my business made things really exciting and most of the time I couldn't help but push forward even if it meant ruining some stock.
One Last Option
I saw another woodcrafter who set up a household electric dehumidifier inside a glass front fridge like I have above. A section of the floor and underneath was cut away to allow the dehumidifier to sit into the base.
As long as the machine air vents are not blocked and the machine is allowed to vent its operating heat this could be an option. Again, you should only operate this while you are in the room or the fridge is located as mentioned above and doesn't pose a risk to life and property.
How Do You Know When the Wood Is Dry?
One of the biggest questions when drying your own timber is knowing when it's actually ready to use. Just because a piece of wood feels dry on the outside doesn't mean the moisture inside has reached a suitable level for turning.
Moisture content, timber thickness, species and the intended project all play a part. Rough-turned bowls also have different drying requirements from timber intended for finished projects.
Rather than cover such a large subject again here, I've written a separate guide explaining what to look for, how to check moisture levels and why rushing the drying process can lead to problems.
Read my guide: How to Tell If Wood Is Dry Enough for Turning.
What Would I Do Differently Today?
Looking back at my first attempts, there are certainly a few things I would approach differently. At the time, I was excited about being able to dry my own wood and probably more interested in getting the kiln running than understanding everything that could go wrong.
I would be far more selective about the wood going into each load, keeping species and thicknesses together and giving freshly cut timber more time to stabilise before attempting kiln drying.
I would also pay more attention to measuring moisture content and recording the progress of individual batches rather than relying so heavily on condensation, temperature and experience.
Most importantly, I would have any proposed heating and electrical system professionally designed and checked rather than trying to adapt an arrangement that was never originally intended for heating timber.
Experimenting taught me a great deal, but it also cost me some perfectly good timber. Sometimes the best lesson in woodturning is learning when not to rush.
Final Thoughts
Building and experimenting with my own wood drying kilns taught me a great deal about timber, moisture and the challenges of drying hardwood for woodturning. I had some good results, made plenty of mistakes and lost a few pieces of perfectly good timber along the way.
If you have access to your own hardwood, a small drying kiln may be worth exploring, but don't underestimate the time, preparation and patience involved. Drying wood is not something you can simply rush by adding more heat.
For anyone starting out, my advice is to take your time, learn how different species behave and put safety ahead of saving money. You'll probably be turning wood for many years, so there's no need to learn everything in the first few months.
Whatever system you use, please do it safely and get someone qualified to double check your work.
If you've found this article useful, you can explore more of my workshop experiences and practical advice in my Woodturning Guides & Articles section.
If you’re interested in building your own kiln and got some benefit from this post, you might also enjoy my other post on turning waste wood shavings into briquettes — a simple way to put your offcuts and sawdust to good use.
Happy and safe turning!
David
About the Author
I’m David Condon, a woodturner and small business owner based in Tralee, Co. Kerry. I’ve been working with wood for most of my life at this stage — 11 years as a carpenter and over a decade running my own woodturning business.
During that time, I’ve worked with Irish hardwoods, taught woodturning, and run my workshop full-time. On this site, I share the same knowledge I pass on to my students — from choosing the right wood and tools to finishing techniques that make every project shine.
I also stock a carefully chosen range of turning blanks, tools, and craft supplies that I use every day in my own work. You can explore more of my handcrafted pieces and classes at DavidCondonWoodcraft.ie.
© David Condon Woodcraft – All Rights Reserved.
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More Woodturning Pages to Explore
● Hampshire Sheen - Fine Finishing products that will highlight your project pieces
● Hamlet Tools - Fantastic Woodturning Tools from a well trusted brand
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● Crafter's Haven – A vast range of craft supplies for crafters and gift givers!
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