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What is the Best Sandpaper for Woodturning?

Updated: Mar 25

If you’re looking for the “best” sandpaper for woodturning, the honest answer is… it depends.


Different jobs need different abrasives, and using the wrong one can slow you down, waste money, or leave a poor finish.


I’ve been woodturning for a good few years now and running my own business for over 10 years. In that time, I’ve tried just about every sanding product available. Some are excellent, some are poor, and many only work well in specific situations.


In this post, I’ll break down the sanding products I actually use in my own work and explain where each one performs best.


This comes up regularly from customers, so rather than giving the same answer over and over, I’ve put everything in one place here.


If you’re just getting started, my post:👉 So You Want to Be a Woodturner? covers the basic tools and materials you’ll need, including what’s worth spending on and what isn’t.


Sanding a small bowl in Tralee
Quality Sanding products are vital for great results!

So, What is the Best Sandpaper for Woodturning?

It’s a loaded question.


There’s no single “best” option, only the right one for the job.


There’s no point using cheap paper-backed sandpaper on a fast-spinning piece, it won’t last. At the same time, using premium cloth-backed abrasives on rough material can be overkill.


In the sections below, I’ll go through the main types I use and explain where each one makes sense.


The Important Bit Most People Miss

Sandpaper is a cutting tool, not just something you rub against wood.


Once it stops cutting, it should be replaced.


In my early days, I made the same mistake many beginners do. I kept using worn sandpaper, thinking I was saving money.


All I was really doing was:

  • generating heat

  • clogging the surface

  • and making the finish worse


Used sandpaper doesn’t cut cleanly. It burnishes the wood surface instead, which can cause problems when applying finishes.


I even had a drawer full of used sandpaper at one stage, so if you’ve been doing the same, you’re not alone.

I wrote more about these early mistakes here:👉 Why Do Most New Woodturners Fail?


Paperback Sandpaper

This is the cheapest form of sandpaper. If you are using it for wood, make sure it is the brown type and not green aluminium oxide, which is not suited to woodturning.


It works well for general woodworking, especially on flat surfaces where you are sanding with the grain. However, for woodturning, it has a few drawbacks. It is quite rigid, can crack when bent into curves, and will often break down if pushed too hard against a spinning piece.


That said, it still has its place.


I keep it in the workshop for quick jobs and for sanding longer, flatter sections where flexibility is not as important. Using paperback for these tasks can help reduce how much of your more expensive abrasives you go through.


Some woodturners use it for everything without issue. For me, it is something I use occasionally rather than as a main sanding option.


Flexible Cloth Backed Sandpaper

This is one of the best all-round options for woodturning.


It can be cut into any shape, making it ideal for sanding into small coves, around beads, and other detailed areas. The cloth backing gives it excellent flexibility and strength, so it holds together far better than paper when working on curved surfaces.


I use this type for most of my woodturning, and also for many of my flat woodcraft pieces. It works very well in sanding holders and stands up to a lot of use without breaking down.


Cutting it into smaller strips is a simple way to be more economical, especially when working on finer details.


It is more expensive than paper-backed sandpaper, but it lasts significantly longer. Keeping it clear of dust by flicking it or using compressed air will help extend its life even further.



Sianet Net Abrasive

Sianet is one of the best sanding products I use, both on and off the lathe.


It comes in 420mm x 75mm strips, typically ranging from 80 to 600 grit. I stock 120 to 400 grit, which comfortably covers most woodturning needs.


The big advantage with Sianet is how well it handles dust.


When used with extraction, the open net structure allows dust to be pulled straight through the abrasive, so it doesn’t clog like traditional sandpaper. Even when used by hand, it stays remarkably clean, a quick shake is usually enough to keep it cutting effectively.


I often use 120 grit to quickly remove tool marks on curved work while the piece is still on the lathe. It cuts efficiently without loading up, which makes it ideal for that early sanding stage.


After that, I move through the finer grits as normal.


Sianet also lasts longer than most cloth-backed abrasives, so although it may seem like a step up in price, it offers excellent value over time.


It can be cut easily with scissors into any shape you need, and the strips are sold loose without packaging, which helps keep the cost down.



Chestnut Products Net Abrasive

Chestnut Products Net Abrasives perform in much the same way as Sianet. They offer the same open net structure, resist clogging, and can be used both on and off the lathe with excellent results.


The main difference comes down to cost and convenience.


Being a UK product, they are more expensive to import compared to European-made Sianet, and they are supplied in packaging, which also adds to the overall price. Many people are still happy to buy them, as they trust the brand and are familiar with how they perform.


They also have a few practical advantages.


They come pre-cut to a handy size, which some people prefer, and the grit is clearly printed on each piece so you won’t mix them up during use.


Many of my customers continue to use them simply because they are familiar with the product and know what to expect.



Chestnut Products Nyweb Sheets

Nyweb sheets are very useful for in-between stages when sanding, and for preparing a surface before applying a finish.


They are not a replacement for standard sandpaper, but they are ideal for refining a surface, removing minor imperfections, and getting a piece ready for the next step.


They are available in four colours, each with a different level of abrasion:

  • Green – Standard abrasion

  • Red – Extra fine

  • Orange – Ultra fine

  • White – Non-abrasive (primarily for applying finishes and stains)


While the white pad is described as non-abrasive, I have found that it can still cause light scratching if used between finish coats. It’s best reserved for applying finishes rather than surface preparation.



Fine Sanding Pads

Fine sanding pads are very useful for refining a surface before finishing.


I use them mainly to de-nib Sanding Sealer, which helps achieve a smooth surface without introducing additional scratches.


When sanding on the lathe, you are cutting across the grain, which can leave fine marks. Using a light grit and then lightly sanding in the direction of the grain afterwards helps reduce these scratches before applying your finish.


I also use these pads as a final rub on many of my woodcraft pieces before blowing off the dust with a compressor.




Sanding Discs for Bowls & Platters

For bowls and platters, sanding discs are used on mandrels to work the curved surfaces effectively.


Quality really matters here. Poor discs generate excess heat, clog quickly, and can damage the surface fibres, leaving scratches that are difficult to remove later.


I make discs to order from 25mm to 75mm, and also supply full 150mm discs.


I learned the importance of quality the hard way. I once received a bad batch of discs and it caused no end of problems. I had to use two discs per grit where one had always been enough, and every bowl showed visible sanding marks by the end.


That was enough for me.


Since then, I only use high-quality discs, typically Swiss or German made, and I’ve had consistent results ever since.



If you’d like to see how these sanding techniques carry through to finished work, my post Salad Bowl Finish, Protect and Care for your Wood Bowl! gives a step-by-step look at my own process.


Flexipads Sanding Mandrels

Flexipads sanding mandrels are essential for bowl and platter work, allowing you to use sanding discs effectively on curved surfaces.


They come in sizes from 25mm to 75mm and attach easily to a drill or rotary system. The flexibility of the pad helps maintain even contact with the surface, reducing the risk of flat spots and uneven sanding.


Having a range of sizes makes it much easier to work into different shapes and contours, especially on tighter curves.



Sanding Belts for Bench Grinders (915 x 100)

Sanding belts are very useful for shaping and refining work off the lathe, especially on a bench-mounted sanding system.


I stock 915 x 100 belts in grits from 80 to 320, which cover everything from initial shaping through to finer sanding stages. They are particularly handy for flat surfaces, edges, and small adjustments that are easier to control off the lathe.


Good quality belts make a big difference here. Cheaper belts tend to clog quickly and wear unevenly, while better belts cut cleaner and last longer.



Rubber Sanding Belt Cleaning Blocks

Rubber cleaning blocks are a simple but very effective way to extend the life of your sandpaper.


They work by removing built-up dust and resin from the surface of sanding belts and discs, helping restore cutting performance and reduce clogging.


I stock two sizes for convenience, and they can be used on most types of sandpaper. The only exception is net abrasives, where the open structure doesn’t benefit in the same way.



In Conclusion

Sanding is rarely anyone’s favourite part of woodturning, but it makes all the difference to the finished piece.


You can do everything right on the lathe, but if the sanding isn’t up to scratch, it will show straight away.

Using poor quality abrasives only makes the job harder and the results worse. Good sanding products cut cleanly, last longer, and help you achieve a far better finish with less effort.


I use all of the products listed above at different stages in my own work, depending on the piece and the result I’m aiming for. Each one has its place, and having the right options to hand makes the whole process more straightforward.


If you want to see what I use, you can find everything here:👉 View Sanding Essentials


Thanks for reading,

David


About the Author

I’m David Condon, a woodturner and small business owner based in Tralee, Co. Kerry. I’ve been working with wood for most of my life at this stage — 11 years as a carpenter and over a decade running my own woodturning business.

During that time, I’ve worked with Irish hardwoods, taught woodturning, and run my workshop full-time. On this site, I share the same knowledge I pass on to my students — from choosing the right wood and tools to finishing techniques that make every project shine.


Check out the full range of Sanding Essentials I carry in my website store today.


© David Condon Woodcraft – All Rights Reserved.



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