Setting Up a Simple Cutting Bench for Woodturning Blanks

David Condon
6 days ago
9 min read

While going through old photos to transfer another blog post, I realised how often my cutting bench showed up in the background. I hadn’t really thought about it before, but the bench evolved quietly over time as I worked out how to cut large volumes of woodturning blanks without destroying my back in the process.

Like most things in my workshop, it wasn’t planned in advance. It was a reaction to pain, frustration, and the realisation that there had to be a better way.

This post isn’t a set of plans, it’s simply a practical look at how my cutting setup evolved to make processing heavy logs safer and easier. I’ve written separately about how I approach breaking down and preparing timber for woodturning, from log to usable blanks, so I won’t repeat that here. This post focuses purely on the bench and the setup that grew out of that process.

Elevated cutting bench set up for chainsawing two large beech logs, using timber offcuts as chocks to keep the logs stable

Starting on the Ground (and Why That Didn’t Last)

I originally started cutting logs on the ground, using offcuts as makeshift chocks. Within about twenty minutes, my back was screaming at me to stop.

Many of the logs I was dealing with weighed well over 100kg, and the working position was awful:

back bent over,
arms extended,
holding a chainsaw that was constantly biting and kicking.

It wasn’t just uncomfortable, it was unsustainable. If I wanted to keep processing my own hardwood, something had to change.

Getting the Log into Its First Cutting Position

When my van was loaded with logs (another struggle entirely), I’d roll them down onto the ground for cutting. Rolling logs is actually the easy part.

The real work starts when you:

orient the log for vertical cuts,
work out the best yield,
chock it so it doesn’t roll while cutting.

On larger logs, I usually use a spirit level to get things right, then measure out my bowl blank sizes before making any cuts. A stable log is essential at this point or your cuts will be off.

A quick side note: a chock is simply a wedge, like the ones used behind aircraft wheels to stop movement while parked.

The Problem With Movement During Chainsawing

A log is at its most stable right at the start, just after it’s been chocked. From there, things only get worse.

As you make each cut:

weight distribution changes,
stability reduces,
The log rolls sideways,
and you often have to re-adjust with the chainsaw still running.

Adding more chocks sometimes helps, but it’s not a great long-term solution, especially when you’re cutting repeatedly.

Before getting into the cutting itself, it’s worth saying that chainsawing timber safely is a skill in its own right. I don’t normally cover this in my tuition sessions unless someone asks specifically, but if you’re unsure about technique, posture, or setup, it’s something I can include and tailor towards processing green wood if needed. For a better idea of how my sessions are structured, you can also read What to Expect on Your First Woodturning Tuition Session.

a simple bench for woodturners for cutting logs of all sizes — My simple cutting bench

My Simple Cutting Bench

I eventually decided to make a dedicated bench that allowed me to:

drive the van right up,
roll logs directly into position,
and cut at a much safer height.

I already had a raised area beside the driveway, so I added concrete blocks and two pressure-treated fence posts. The result worked far better than I expected.

Exact dimensions aren’t critical here, the goal is height, stability, and clearance for safe cutting.

my simple cutting bench level with the van floor for easy unloading of heavy logs

The benefits were immediate:

far less strain on my back,
safer cutting posture,
and no more chainsawing on the stone driveway surface.

Cleaning up afterwards also became much easier.

Woodturner's Tip:

If you have tarpaulins or heavy plastic sheets, you can spread them on the ground both sides to make clean up even easier before you start cutting.

another view of my woodturner's cutting bench with notched cross chocks to keep logs stable during cutting

I added notched cross pieces to act as solid immovable chocks, which worked incredibly well. In the photos, you’ll see four of these, allowing me to process two large logs at the same time. Additional offcut slivers can be used in conjunction with these for logs that are not perfectly symmetrical.

Materials Used (Very Basic)

3 posts – 4" × 4" × approx. 7 feet
6 concrete blocks
- two at either end
- two lightly supporting the centre underneath

Nothing fancy, just solid and practical. At once stage I had more blocks but I removed them as they were getting in the way. Place the blocks in from the end of the posts so you can slide them left and right.

Issues You’ll Eventually Face

There are a few realities to accept with a setup like this:

You will cut into the treated wood over time, see image below
Eventually, those posts will need replacing
When that happens, they can be cut up and repurposed as smaller stickers.

You can extend their life by:

adding sacrificial boards on top,
or building stepped layers to raise the log further.

Woodturner's Tip:

If you do screw or nail anything in place, be absolutely sure it’s not in a cutting zone, or you’ll destroy your chainsaw chain very quickly.

Once the logs are cut, the next challenge is dealing with the timber properly. If you’d like to go a step further and dry your own hardwood, my post Make Your Own Wood Drying Kiln will point you in the right direction.

And if you’re wondering what to do with all the offcuts, sawdust, and shavings that build up during this process, you might also find Turning Waste Wood Shavings into Briquettes useful.

When the Wood Isn’t in the Van

If the wood isn’t arriving neatly in the van, you’ve got another problem to solve.

I sometimes get deliveries by truck, where large trunks or logs are dumped directly onto the stone driveway. Large trunk logs have to be cut to bowl blank size first on the ground. I generally have the trunks placed on stickers where the truck gib drops them so the chainsaw doesn't touch the stones. Getting those cut lengths up onto the cutting bench meant I had to get creative again.

In the photo below, you’ll see that I had added two more posts to raise the cutting height and act as sacrificial wood. When cutting directly from the van, I could slide the top posts back by about 16 inches, restoring a level surface that matched the van height.

Steel lifting frame in the upright position at the cutting bench, showing the final height reached when lifting large logs

My Manual Lifting Frame

I needed a way to lift very heavy logs, sometimes up to 150kg, from ground level to the top of the bench, roughly 18 inches high.

The ancient Egyptians managed it without forklifts, so I figured I could too.

I had an old metal bench made from 1.5" box iron and some leftover steel from previous projects that I could use. The idea was simple:

a fixed pivot point,
a long lever arm,
Controlled movements so the logs wouldn't fall off,
and gravity doing most of the work after a certain height was achieved.

I sketched a rough plan and brought it to a local welder.

At the time, I was often lifting these blank sized logs either alone or with help from my son. By the time the log was finally on the bench, I was normally too tired to do any actual cutting. This frame will change that completely.

The original idea was loosely inspired by setups I’d seen used by woodworkers in the US to load heavy logs onto pickup beds. This is just my own take on that idea, adapted to suit my space, the materials I had to hand and how I work.

Steel lifting frame folded down at the end of the cutting bench, showing the hinged base and pivot point used to raise heavy logs

How the Frame Works

My lifting Frame comes in 3 parts, purely for storage, transport and the steel I had to hand at the time. The extra length is essential for leverage as a shorter frame would require more effort. Once lifted off the ground with the secured log in place, you can walk and lift until the angled section sits on the bench. Undo the strap and the log rolls off until it hits the bench chock. Remove the frame by lowering it to the ground again. Don't leave it upright in case it falls and hits someone.

In the photos:

the two pieces of timber show where the log sits,
the log should always be ratchet strapped during lifting,
and a chock must be in place at the bench top to prevent rolling when the strap is removed.

One of the biggest advantages is control. I can:

lift very heavy loads gradually,
stop halfway if needed,
and rest the frame on a timber block under a cross brace.
Lift with one or two people with relative ease.

Note: I painted the frame black with some leftover metal paint mainly to tidy up the look and added plastic end caps so I didn't cut myself everytime I was near the frame.

The frame is secured with heavy screws and levelled properly during setup.

Unfortunately, I don’t have photos of logs actually being lifted, I cut my last load just before finishing the frame. That said, it has been load-tested and performs exactly as expected. I’m genuinely looking forward to the next delivery of hardwood just to use it properly.

log lifting frame showing the hinge detail with the log support in the foreground.

Frame Storage (Plan This Early)

When the frame isn’t in use, it needs to be stored somewhere sensible.

If you’re making something similar:

plan storage before you build,
consider making the right-angle log support detachable,
and make sure all attachment points are strong and reinforced.

It’s a simple build, but it needs to be strong where it matters.

One thing I learned fairly quickly is that a cutting frame that works well but is awkward to store ends up being leaned in corners, dragged around the floor, or left in the way. Thinking about where it lives when it’s not in use makes the whole setup more practical day to day, especially in a small workshop.

log lifting frame in the upright position with the added extension joint clearly visible.

None of this was designed on paper first. It evolved out of necessity, trial and error, and listening to my back. If it gives you a few ideas for making your own setup safer or more comfortable, then it’s done its job.

I don't have access to a forklift or other heavy lifting equipment so this setup is ideal. A stone driveway is also not suitable for a forklift which may match your own cutting area.

A lot of my processes in this workshop have evolved in the same way over the years. If you’re interested, you can read more about how I cut, process, and finish my work in My Process: How I Approach Woodturning, from Log to Finished Piece.

Until next time, be safe when cutting your own wood.

Thanks for Reading,

David

About the Author

I’m David Condon, a woodturner and small business owner based in Tralee, Co. Kerry. I’ve been working with wood for most of my life at this stage — 11 years as a carpenter and over a decade running my own woodturning business.

Over the years, I’ve learned that woodturning is as much about patience and problem-solving as it is about tools and technique. I work mainly with Irish hardwoods, teach woodturning full-time, and spend most days learning something new in the workshop myself. On this site, I share the same practical knowledge I pass on to my students, shaped by experience, mistakes, and time spent at the lathe.

If buffing, finishing, or other woodturning questions are on your mind, you’re very welcome to join me for a tuition class in Tralee. We’ll work through things at your pace and see if we can get you properly sorted. You can find full details and current class options on my Woodturning Tuition page.

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