Which Skew Chisel Should You Start With? (A Simple Guide for Beginners)
- David Condon

- 3 days ago
- 8 min read
The skew chisel is probably the most feared tool in woodturning.
It’s the one that gets blamed for catches, torn grain, and ruined pieces. Most beginners either avoid it completely, or try it once and put it straight back in the rack.
That’s a shame, because when used properly, it’s one of the cleanest cutting tools you’ll ever use.
The problem isn’t the tool itself. It’s usually how it’s introduced, or which version of it you start with.
For something that looks fairly simple, the shape and size of a skew makes a big difference to how forgiving it is.

Quick Answer: Which Skew Should You Start With?
If you’re just getting started, keep it simple:
● A rolled edge skew (HCT105 or HCT105R) as your main tool
● A GL9 radius skew if you prefer something heavier
● A 1/2" skew (HCT104) later on for finer work
That small combination will cover everything you need early on.
Which Skew Chisel Should You Start With?
When it comes to skews, this is where most beginners get stuck.
There are a lot of options, and they all look fairly similar at first glance. In practice, small differences in shape and edge profile make a big impact on how easy the tool is to control.
If you’re starting out, I’d keep it simple and choose from the following.
HCT105 or HCT105R (Start Here)
If you’re unsure which skew to go for, this is the easiest place to start.
Both the HCT105 and HCT105R are 3/4'' rolled and radiused edge skews respectively. The edges are slightly rounded rather than sharp and square, and that makes them far more forgiving on the toolrest and easier to round over curves on the wood surface.
Between the two, it really comes down to preference. They behave very similarly, so you don’t need both.
The main advantage is control. The rolled edges reduce the chances of catches and make it easier to feel what the tool is doing.

For most beginners, this is the safest and most straightforward way into using a skew.
Before you even get to this stage, most spindle work starts with a roughing gouge to get the blank round. I’ve covered which sizes make the most sense here:
GL9 (If You Prefer a Heavier Tool)
If you like something with a bit more weight behind it, the GL9 is a great option.
It feels more substantial in the hand and works well as a general-purpose skew for spindle turning. That extra weight can help stabilise the cut while you’re still building confidence.
It’s still a forgiving tool, just with a slightly different feel to the rolled edge versions.
HCT104 1/2" Rolled Edge Skew (For Finer Work)
Once you’re more comfortable, a smaller skew like the HCT104 1/2" is a nice addition.
The narrower width makes it easier to work in tighter areas and gives you more control when shaping smaller details.
It’s not essential at the start, but it’s a useful step up as your confidence grows.
Other Skews (Worth Knowing About)
There are a few other skews in the range, but I wouldn’t recommend starting with them.
The HCT101 standard skew is the traditional square-edged version most people think of. It works very well, but it’s less forgiving and tends to catch beginners out more easily.
You’ll also come across round bar skews like the HCT108 (3/8") and HCT109 (1/2"). These have their place for more specialised work, but they’re not something you need to worry about early on.
Why I Don’t Recommend Starting With the Standard Skew
I used to recommend the standard 3/4" skew (HCT101), and there’s nothing major wrong with it.
One issue I’ve come across over time is the long edges. They’re very sharp, and that can lead to small nicks in your toolrest. It doesn’t take much, and once that happens, it starts affecting how smoothly your tools move across it.
A simple fix is to take a metal file, or even a sanding pad on an angle grinder, and just soften those edges slightly before using the tool.
That aside, I’ve found most beginners get on far better with rolled edge or radius skews. They’re simply more forgiving, and that makes the whole learning process smoother.
Once you understand how a skew works, you can use any of them. But getting to that point is much easier with a tool that doesn’t punish small mistakes.
How a Skew Chisel Should Cut
This is where most of the fear comes from.
The skew is not a scraping tool. It should be cutting cleanly, with the edge slicing through the fibres.
Start by bringing the bevel into contact with the wood. Then gently adjust the angle until the tool begins to cut.
From there, it’s all about control:
● Maintain bevel contact
● Use light, controlled movements
● Let the tool slice, not scrape
When it’s working properly, the finish off the tool is incredibly clean.
If it feels aggressive or unpredictable, something is off, usually angle, pressure, or bevel contact.
Sharpening Skews (Takes Patience at First)
Sharpening a skew is one of the biggest hurdles for beginners.
It’s not difficult, but it does take patience and a bit of care to get right.
You’re trying to maintain a clean, even edge across the full width of the tool, and that takes a steady hand. Small inconsistencies in the grind will show up straight away in how the tool behaves.
Round bar skews are harder again, because of their shape. They take more control at the grinder and are less forgiving to sharpen.
The key is consistency.
Once you’ve found your angle, keep it the same every time. Don’t chase a “perfect” grind, just aim for a clean, sharp edge.
Making a simple jig to hold your angle makes a big difference. It doesn’t need to be complicated, just something repeatable so you’re not guessing each time.
With a bit of practice, it becomes second nature, but the first few attempts will take time.
A Few Practical Tips
No matter which skew you’re using:
● Keep your cuts light and controlled
● Always maintain bevel contact
● Don’t rush, the skew rewards patience
●Keep the tool sharp, it makes a huge difference
If you’re struggling with rough surfaces or torn grain, I’ve covered that here:👉 Why Is My Wood Tearing Instead of Cutting Cleanly?
The Skew’s Reputation (And Why It’s Misunderstood)
The skew chisel has a reputation for being one of the most difficult tools in woodturning. For many beginners, it’s the one that causes the most frustration and the most memorable catches.
That reputation doesn’t come from nowhere. The cutting edge is long and flat, and if too much of it engages at once without proper support, the tool can grab quickly. Most early problems come down to how the edge meets the wood, not the tool itself.
With the right technique, the skew becomes far more predictable. Light, controlled cuts, proper presentation, and working off the bevel all make a huge difference. It’s not about forcing the tool, it’s about letting it cut cleanly with minimal pressure.
In practice, you don’t need to use the skew for everything. Even if you only use it occasionally, it’s an excellent tool for clean decorative V-cuts and wider, more open V profiles that are difficult to achieve as cleanly with other tools.
A bit of guidance early on can make a big difference here. Once you understand how the tool behaves, it quickly goes from something to avoid to something you’ll reach for when you want a clean finish.
Building Your Core Woodturning Tool Set
When you are putting together your first proper set of woodturning tools, it is worth learning where each tool fits before buying too many. A skew chisel is a very useful spindle turning tool, but it makes far more sense when you understand how it works alongside the roughing gouge, spindle gouge and parting tool. The related guides below should help you build a more sensible starter kit.
● 3 Essential Spindle Turning Tools for Beginners A simple guide to the core tools I think most beginners should understand first when starting spindle work.
● Spindle Roughing Gouge Sizes Explained - A closer look at roughing gouge sizes, what they are used for, and which one I would suggest starting with.
● Choosing the Right Parting Tools for Woodturning - A practical guide to parting tool sizes, kerfs, cleaner separation cuts, and why different widths matter.
● The 3 Bowl Gouges I Recommend to My New Students (And Why) - A separate guide for bowl work, covering the gouges I recommend to beginners and why I teach them in that order.
What Not to Do When Buying Your First Woodturning Tools
One common mistake I see beginners make is buying a large woodturning chisel set, or being given one as a gift, before they really know what each tool is for. It can feel like good value at the time, but many of the tools may never get used, while the few important ones may not be the best quality, or the right shape for learning.
That is why I usually suggest starting smaller, with individual tools you properly understand rather than one large kit. Learn what a roughing gouge, spindle gouge, parting tool and skew chisel actually do first. Then add bowl gouges separately when you are ready to move into bowl turning.
I’ve written more about that here:
Final Thoughts
The skew chisel has a reputation for being difficult, but most of that comes down to how it’s introduced.
Start with a more forgiving tool, take your time, and focus on control rather than speed.
Once it clicks, it becomes one of the most satisfying tools to use, and one of the best for leaving a clean finish straight off the tool.
If you want to explore more guides and build out your skills step by step:👉 Woodturning Guides & Articles.
Thanks for Reading,
David
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About the Author
I’m David Condon, a woodturner and small business owner based in Tralee, Co. Kerry. I’ve been working with wood for most of my life at this stage — 11 years as a carpenter and over a decade running my own woodturning business.
Over the years, I’ve learned that woodturning is as much about patience and problem-solving as it is about tools and technique. I work mainly with Irish hardwoods, teach woodturning full-time, and spend most days learning something new in the workshop myself. On this site, I share the same practical knowledge I pass on to my students, shaped by experience, mistakes, and time spent at the lathe. If you’re interested in learning in person, I offer woodturning lessons in Tralee, with details available on my Woodturning Tuition page.
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